“When I was here for the first time with my good friend and filmer Jon Aspuru, I was really scared at times. The wave breaks in really shallow water, we were all alone. After catching a couple of waves, I stopped surfing. Not because I was tired or the waves stopped, it was simply too dangerous. There was no one around, it is a long drive to the nearest town and an even longer one to the nearest hospital. So I decided to take some of my best friends on the next big swell and it was completely different.” – @natxogonzalez1.