Video: “Don’t pass out. If you pass out here you could die” – Aussie landscaper and big wave surfer Zac Haynes charges terrifying mountain breaks like The Right and Nazare with zero fear!

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Zac Haynes-Love knew he was in for a beating when the wave broke a couple of metres in front of him. Getting into trouble in Nazare is no laughing matter. So he took a breath and braced himself. “I swam down and then it just caught me and I got picked up, thrown backwards and pushed really deep. I got rumbled and tumbled for a long time and when I pulled my safety vest, the next wave came over me. I was already out of breath and I just got absolutely rag dolled again. I’d never been under water for that long. All I could think was, Don’t pass out. If you pass out here you could die. When I got to the point where I was passing out, that’s when I broke the surface. I reckon there was a few seconds in it.” Photo via: @chris.whitey.

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